Below are some basic rigging tips. There are several other detailed articles on various aspects of rigging an Interclub, but as our FAQ says, Interclubs are like children, no two are the same and as a result, you have to be willing to experiment a bit with your particular situation.
- Adjustable mast step options – Jesse Falsone
- Sealing your board handle hole – Jesse Falsone
- Replacing your rubrail – Bill Healy
- Pre-season checklist – Jesse Falsone
IC adjustable mast step options – Jesse Falsone
As many of you know, having the mast rake on the IC set properly is important to good speed and pointing. There are three factors affecting the rake; mast step position, forestay tension and shroud tension. I have been looking for a simple solution to an adjustable mast step for my new boat. Here is what I’ve found:
- Screw-type adjustable step – After investigating an Andersen adjustable Europe Dinghy step, I decided against purchasing this because of price and the fact that I would have to have some welding mods made to it. Neal Fowler has this type of step.
- Proctor Tenon Heel plug – Another option was to fabricate a Tenon style heel plug and use the standard Proctor mast step (as seen in the APS catalog) in the boat. As far as I know, you can’t get a factory built Tenon heel plug. Therefore, my idea was to use a standard Kenyon mast step and screw a heavy-duty marine plastic heel to it. This would definately work, but I was concerned about the mast twisting in the plug. Mast twist is a no-no.
- Kerry Klinger from UK City Island (NY) had a lot of success using standard 1″ aluminum angle iron (looks like an “L” in cross section). This is available in many home supply or lumber yards for about $15 for a 3 foot section. It turns out that the inside dimension of this angle iron is exactly half the mast width (1.75/2 = 0.875″). Therefore, he simply screwed 2 opposing halves down to the boat to form a “U” channel and drilled holes at about 1/2″ increments for adjustment. You can either put a pin forward and aft of the mast (pins aligned so that they are 2.75″ apart) or just put one pin directly through it (requires a hole in the mast).
- The last option is to buy the 6″ stainless piece that Guck, Inc. is having made for the boat at $40/ea. This is the easiest since the holes are all pre-drilled, with the anchoring holes countersunk. For a photo and description, see Jesse’s article on “Rigging Guck IC #802”.
Of course you could just stick a standard Zephyr or Kenyon step right onto the boat – but that’s not as slick.
Sealing your board handle hole – Jesse Falsone
Here are my super secret suggestion for waterproofing the pin hole:
- If possible, seal the opposite (port side) end of the board. I glassed over the entire port side of the board head to thicken it so it fit tight in the trunk. In doing so, I essentially solved a portion of the problem. One note here – CB handle peg may have to be cut down a little so it doesn’t poke through.
- Shim the CB to fit tight against the trunk – the less play here the less water will be allowed to flow into the boat.
- Make certain that the mating surfaces on the trunk are flat and smooth. This includes the surface on the trunk that mates with the gasket. Clean this area off each year with some solvent.
- Buy a new gasket – a nice thick one.
- Before installing the handle, spooge plenty of silicon in the pin hole of the board. Use marine grease on both sides of the gasket.
- Tighten your scres enough so that the board requires some pressure to move it up and down.
Replacing your rubrail – Bill Healy
Here are my super secret suggestion for waterproofing the pin hole. I just pulled off the wide rubrail off a Menkart and attached the new light rubrail. It saved me about 4 lbs.! Here are eight easy steps.
- Take off old rubrail and plastic rail mount.
- Plane down edge of rail with beltsander so the deck/hull joint evens out.
- While still rolled up, heat up new light rail in box with ceramic heater so its hot to the touch. (must use gloves)
- Mix up west systems epoxy and add white pigment. Apply to rail of boat.
- Attach rail to one corner and screw in. (Keep it in original roll)
- Push rail on while walking behind it with the roll turned “inside out”. This will allow it to attach without you having to pry it open.
- Screw in other end and let dry. Acetone any place where epoxy may have traveled esspecially on top deck.
- You may need to shave (with beltsander) the rail to make it thinner in some places.
Pre-season checklist – Jesse Falsone
- Check the CB gasket to make sure it’s not cracked or eroded. If you need to replace it, buy some 1/8-3/16″ gasket material from the hardware store or plumbing store. It should be fairly stiff with a smooth outer surface. Use a circular punch to cut the center hole for a smooth finish.
- When istalling the gasket, use a little greese on the surfaces so the handle doesn’t chafe it. I go a step further by placing a smooth, stiff mylar fabric between the handle and the gasket to prevent wear. A bit of silicon in the pin hole also helps the seal.
- Use some Lanacote or other eloctrolysis prohibitor in the bolt holes for the CB. Chances are you are using stainless bolts in brass threads. If you don’t put an inhibitor between the two, the brass will corrode. I will bring some Lanacote on Sunday. Ask me.
- Check you fittings for tightness! Fittings loosten up over a season of sailing. Take out a screwdriver and a wrench/socket and go over the entire boat. This takes 10-15 minutes, and you will be surprised what you find! Even screws using lock nuts will loosen. Make sure you check those rudder gudgeons and mast step!
- Check your tiller universal for wear. The cold weather tends to break these down quickly. Is yours cracked? If so replace. If you break it on the water, you can borrow my spare that I keep in the boat, but it will cost you one imported beer!
- Check your shroud and forestay terminals. Do you see lots of rust in the swage? If so, it may be time for a replacement. Bring your old shroud to a rigger or APS and duplicate.
- Check to see you have all your ring-dings! These things get mangled and fall out ocassionally. The lack of this $0.05 part can ruin your day. I tape all my rings in critical locations with quality electrical tape (3M). Don’t use duct tape – too much residue. Electrical tape wraps well, wears well, and leaves no sticky mess.
- Check you foils for cracks. Any cracks in your nice custom blades can lead to damage and/or failure. Take a few minutes to patch and nicks and cracks with some epoxy.
- How’s your halyard? Wire halyards tend to fray leaving burrs. I use an approx. 1 foot 1 by 19 wire section with nicro press ends. I try and replace this each year. I simply take my old halyard to West Marine where they have the do-it-yourself bench. I duplicate my wire for about $1.50 in parts!
- Put your corrector weights back in! If you took ’em out, put ’em back in! If you made mods to your boat, you must reweigh and modify your corrector weights as necessary. Lead blocks are best. I drill through mine and bolt them directly to my bulkhead. If you don’t have a bulkhead, you can bond or tie them to the floor under the thwart. 5200 works well for bonding, but don’t plan on taking it out soon! Also, standard 5200 takes forever to dry. 3M Quick dry 4200 may be better and isn’t as permanent.